By:
• Elise Roy

• October 1, 2024 , 8:00 AM

STRASBOURG, FRANCE – On September 29, nearly 250 people gathered at Wat Strasbourg to commemorate the final day of the Pchum Ben Festival, honoring Khmer traditions. The Khmer diaspora united to celebrate this significant religious event.

In northeastern France, entire families from Strasbourg, other provinces, and even Germany traveled to Wat Strasbourg to pay tribute to their ancestors. Celebrated both in Cambodia and within the global Khmer diaspora, Pchum Ben is a cherished and important religious festival.

Wat Strasbourg, located in Lingolsheim near the French city of Strasbourg, was inaugurated four years ago. Four monks reside there permanently. A fifth monk joined them to participate in the Pchum Ben celebrations. This temple provides the Khmer diaspora in France with a connection to their Cambodian heritage. Nestled on a quiet street, the temple offers a peaceful space for the community to gather and celebrate traditional Khmer festivals.

A total respect for Khmer traditions

In Strasbourg, the Pchum Ben festival, a fifteen-day observance honoring ancestors, unfolded with reverence. The first fourteen days, known as Kan Ben, were a time of open invitation to the temple. Devotees came to pray for their loved ones and offer food or essential goods to the monks.

On the culminating fifteenth day, the temple was abuzz with activity as families gathered in larger numbers. Arriving before 11:00 in the morning, they prepared their offerings and participated in the monks' early morning chants. The ritual of rob bat, where rice is offered to the monks' bowls, followed. A sense of meticulous organization prevailed, ensuring that the monks could partake in their meal before noon, in accordance with tradition.

As early as nine o'clock, devotees were hard at work preparing the temple grounds. Red carpets were unrolled, and trays laden with delicious treats, including Sangkhya Lapov, Num Kachay, Pang Soth, and Num Ansom Chek, were arranged. The space was meticulously prepared to accommodate the large gathering, and nothing was left to chance. Condensed milk and boxes of coffee stood alongside the generously cooked rice, ready to be enjoyed with a variety of Khmer dishes.

Despite being 10,000 kilometers away from Cambodia, the temple in Strasbourg offered a transportive experience. The sights, sounds, and flavors of the Pchum Ben festival were faithfully recreated, bringing a piece of the Kingdom to this distant land.

A near-omnipresence of the Khmer language

Within the temple grounds, a harmonious blend of Khmer and French filled the air. Five monks chanted in Khmer, their voices echoing through the space. Meanwhile, the devotees, primarily Franco-Cambodians, conversed in Khmer, their mother tongue. It was as if a silent agreement had been made to preserve the cultural richness of the traditions. The occasional French word, uttered mostly by the younger generation, who were less familiar with the customs, stood out like a foreign accent.

"It is essential that Khmer is spoken here during these celebrations," a devotee remarked. "Preserving our culture can be a challenge when living abroad." This sentiment underscored the importance of the event as a means of maintaining cultural identity.

The Pchum Ben festival also served as an opportunity to introduce Buddhism to younger generations and those unfamiliar with the religion. A warm welcome was extended to newcomers, who were encouraged to explore the temple, savor the food, and connect with the community.

A necessary adaptation to the French climate

Wat Strasbourg, a tiny gem nestled amidst a tapestry of languages, exudes a unique charm. Here, generosity and sharing transcend linguistic barriers, forging a universal language of human connection. Yet, this Cambodian immersion in France is not without its nuances.

As the autumn chill creeps in, the Pchum Ben celebrated in Strasbourg takes on a distinctive character compared to its Cambodian counterpart. Traditional outfits are layered with warm jackets, and open sandals are paired with socks. Large outdoor heaters provide respite from the cold, ensuring that everyone can enjoy the festivities comfortably.

Beyond the weather, which ranges between 12 and 16 degrees Celsius, and the difference in location, this Pchum Ben Day felt like a profound and memorable return to Cambodia. The spirit of the celebration, the traditions, and the sense of community were undeniably Cambodian, creating a heartwarming and authentic experience.