SIEM REAP — It seems almost unfair to speak of the ancient city of Angkor without pointing out the smaller temples hidden in the woods, behind villagers’ houses, or overshadowed by larger monuments. Why should one look for those temples or sites? What do they have that larger temples may not entirely offer?

Actually, there are no clear characteristics to define what constitutes a smaller or a bigger temple. Historical sites in Cambodia come in many forms across the spectrum, encompassing bridges and canals, religious and ancestral monuments, bridges and water reservoir systems, shrines, temples on hills, sculptures on the faces of mountains, ancient quarries, and so on.

In the case of temples, there usually are no clear characteristics to define what constitutes a smaller or a bigger temple. And the size does not necessarily determine the number of visitors at a site as not all bigger temples attract a large number of visitors and vice-versa for smaller temples. The size is only one of the factors along with others such as a temple’s proximity to a centre of population, ease of access, and the public being aware of the site through guidebooks or social media.

Caption: Phnom Bok temple

For example, the relatively larger temple of Chau Srei Vibol, which is about 28 kilometres northeast of downtown Siem Reap, does not receive as many tourists as one would expect in view of its size even though it is dilapidated. And this, in spite of the fact that visitors travelling between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap city pass by it.

Caption: Chau Srei Vibol temple

The temple of Phnom Bok, sitting on a mountain more than 200 metres high and around 20 kilometres from downtown Siem Reap, also receives less tourists in spite of its beautiful and calm setting plus its unique characteristic, which is that there are grown frangipani trees on the roof of the temple and the large stone Shiva lingam sculpture.

Caption: Banteay Srei temple

On the other hand, the relatively smaller temple of Banteay Srei, which is located about 35 kilometres northeast of downtown Siem Reap, receives crowds upon crowds of domestic and international tourists nearly year-round. One cannot deny the beauty of the bas-reliefs of this 10th century temple, which has led to a great deal of information on this temple being put on the internet. The small temple of Ta Prohm Kel, which was a hospital chapel in Angkorian times, also receives a large number of tourists as it stands nearly in front of the famed Angkor Wat temple.

Caption: Ta Prohm Kel temple

Here are some temples and sites that are less visited but worth seeing. They are located near and far from the Bayon and Angkor Wat temples, which stand in the middle of the capital city of the Angkorian empire.

Ak Yum Temple

Situated about 17 kilometres from the Siem Reap city centre, the temple of Ak Yum is a small brick structure located next to the embankment of the enormous ancient West Baray water reservoir. Sources suggest that it was built in the 7th century, that is, before the Angkorian era.

Few tourists visit this temple as it is quite a distance from the concentration of temples. When walking or driving on the reservoir’s dike, one might need to look down to see this temple whose access is partially blocked by trees during the rainy season. Parts of large stone blocks and bricks are scattered in the area around the base of the temple’s main tower, which is still standing.

The red dirt road, which goes up and down the embarkment, can be a bit dusty in the dry season and turn muddy in the rainy season. Still, this is a great place to ride bicycles and enjoy going along this vast reservoir whose edges touch the water with sand on its sides as if it was a seaside.

Ak Yum temple is located near the West Mebon, a major 11th century temple currently being restored, and also near many food vendors selling Cambodian food under thatched-house roofs.

Kok Po Temple

A bit further from Ak Yum, about 25 kilometres from downtown Siem Reap, stands another small temple that is pretty much surrounded by rice paddies and also small villages. Getting to Kok Po temple can be a bit of a challenge during the rainy season as dirt roads can get muddy.

And yet, with the green landscape and herds of buffaloes bathing in the ponds, visiting Kok Po temple is more than just reaching a destination as it is like being on a voyage. Resting in between canopies of trees and small hills, Kok Po temple enables one to escape from the city life and immerse oneself in the calmness of farmlands.

Wat Athvea temple

Continuing south toward the Tonle Sap lake, one arrives at Wat Athvea, which is about five kilometres from downtown Siem Reap. Although this temple is not that far from the city centre, not many people are aware of it as this temple quietly stands in a village flanked by ponds and rice paddies.

Built in the 12th century or maybe later, Wat Athvea has been restored over the years. Its historic and religious presence contributes to the village’s typical Cambodian countryside atmosphere, with a pagoda built right next to it, villagers will occasionally go to the temple’s hall to pray and make offerings. 

South of Wat Athvea is the Phnom Krom temple. Built on top of a hill and offering a fine view of Siem Reap city and the Tonle Sap lake, Phnom Krom temple attracts more visitors than Wat Athvea.

East Top temple

Called Prasat Top Khaang Koet in Khmer, that is, Top Temple of the East or Prasat Top East, it is overshadowed by the gigantic and famed structures nearby.

Located within the walls that surrounded Angkor Thom—the empire’s capital—and about 1.5 kilometre from the famed Bayon temple, the Top Temple of the East, or Prasat Top East, is believed to have been the last Hindu temple to be built during the Angkorian era in Cambodia.

Set in the forest of Angkor Thom and a short walk from the main road, the temple can be reached by a small dirt path. The tree branches that nearly form an arch over it, blocking the sunlight, make one feel that it is always early evening at the temple. Many of its beautiful sculptures on lintels and pediments now lie on the ground.

Although small compared to the neighbouring Phimeanakas and Baphuon temples, the Top Temple of the East is a good place to relax in a pocket of tranquillity away from the crowds and busyness one finds at the main temples at Angkor.

Chrung temple(s)

These four temples are located at the four corners of the walled city of Angkor Thom—each of the four walls being 3-kilometre long. Reaching these landmark northeast, southeast, northwest or southwest temples demand time and energy on the part of visitors, but they are worth the effort.

Since the entrance of Angkor Thom is located in the middle of the 3-kilometre wall, walking or cycling to each Chrung temple requires visitors to cover a distance of 1.5 kilometre on top of the laterite wall that has been strengthened by compact soil.

Over the years, the path on top of the 7-metre-high wall has become uneven with overgrown trees, scattered stones and termite mounds and at times light mud along the way. On one side of the wall is the forest of Angkor Thom, and on the other, the enormous moat of this former capital city, which in some places is filled with green water plants, the forest and villagers’ farmland in the distance.

At the Chrung temples, visitors can relax in a calm atmosphere with a cool breeze in late afternoon at times, and with a view, almost without obstruction, of the Cambodian countryside. Once in a while, visitors can see villagers going in the moat to fish or row a boat for pleasure. A number of people, including British Ambassador Dominic Williams, walk Angkor Thom’s perimeter of 12 kilometre for exercise.

Prei Monti temple

Situated about 20 kilometres southwest of the city of Siem Reap in Hariharalaya, which was the early stage of Angkor capital, the Prasat Prei Monti is a small temple with three towers and which is located a short distance from the Bakong temple, which was at the centre of the city.

Located a bit further from the main road, the Prei Monti temple stands under canopies of trees, close to rice paddies. To reach it, visitors must go along small dirt roads, which are not really suitable for family cars especially during the rainy season when the ground can turn muddy near the temple.

At Prei Monti, visitors may find that they have the temple to themselves and can relax in its tranquil atmosphere with a few temple caretakers going about their work. Although there is little to see, the Prei Monti temple provides a peaceful environment and an opportunity to relax after visiting the nearby better-known Bakong or Preah Ko of this group of temples referred to as the Roluos group.

Banteay Prei temple & Prei temple

Located 200 metres or so from each other, the temples of Banteay Prei and Prasat Prei stand on the northern side of the water reservoir in the middle of which is the small Neak Pean temple on an island. They are relatively quiet and minimally restored.

Coming from Siem Reap, visitors will first pass the Preah Khan temple and then must pay close attention for the sign indicating the small dirt road leading to these temples, a road that can be dusty or muddy depending on the season.

Dating from the late 12th-early 13th century during the reign of King Jayavarman VII, the Banteay Prei and much smaller Prasat Prei feature sculpted elements typical of the era.

These temples can be a good choice for visitors looking for a quiet setting after visiting the more popular, and more crowded, Neak Pean, Preah Khan, or Ta Som temples in the vicinity.

Banteay Thom temple

Getting to Banteay Thom, which is located about 15 kilometres north of the centre of Siem Reap city, is quite easy 90 percent of the way.  The other 10 percent of the journey involves travelling along a small village flanked by plots of rice paddies, palm trees and the irrigation system.

From the main road, one must walk or ride a motorcycle to reach Banteay Thom. Going by car is not a good idea during the rainy season as the sandy roads can easily turn into an ocean of mud.

Not that small or that big, this temple is visited by a small number of people as it is hidden by a thick canopy of trees. Plus, the way leading to it from the main road looks unremarkable, being a small dirt road behind a villager’s house.

But then, getting there is a journey into rural and authentic Cambodia. Inside the temple, a visitor may feel like an explorer of past eras discovering an unknown site as he may be the only person at the site. This is one of the best sites in and around Angkor Park for people who wish to spend time at a historical site away from crowds.

Ancient kilns of Tani Village (Museum)

The kilns of Tani village date from the Angkorian period. Once an important and busy area where were made potteries and many clay items such as roof tiles, over time, the kiln structures more or less turned into small mounds.

In the late 1990s and early 2000s, these kilns were thoroughly studied by researchers from Cambodia and Japan, which led to setting up a museum. Today, the Angkor Ceramic Museum, which was funded by Japan, is located next to the site where excavations were conducted in the village and is dedicated to the ceramics of Cambodia’s past eras.

Moreover, the site of the kilns of Tani enables visitors to see rural Cambodia. Villagers’ houses with thatches roofs stand next to grids of rice paddies and cattle feeding on grass.

Conclusion

Exploring these lesser-known temples can prove challenging even for Cambodian tourists with limited time and budget. Which is why many visitors may focus on the most remarkable temples historically and culturally, which can be seen in a matter of hours in Angkor Park.

That being said, this article aims to draw attention to historical sites big and small, in or near the Angkor Archaeological Park, sites that may inspire or intrigue foreign and Cambodian visitors, and this, in a more private manner as they tend not to attract the crowds one sees at the most prominent temples.

Monuments are more than just piles of organised stones. They are the standing testaments of a time passed, traditions spanning thousands of years, displaying an engineering knowledge worth studying, religious sites where one can still worship. And they also are destinations and cultural heritage playing a role in the country’s economy, symbols that inspire national pride, and where the souls of their builders still remain.

Tiny or grand, it is only when one can see what lies beyond the stones that one can grasp their ultimate importance and ancestral value.

Every stone tells a story, every temple tells a tale.