Passing the Torch: German Conservator Trains Next Generation of Temple Restorers
- May 22, 2025 , 9:50 AM
SIEM REAP & PARIS - Behold, a colossal form cast in bronze, over five meters in length, lying in serene repose upon the breast of a man-made ocean, as if the waters themselves were crafted solely to cradle him.
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Envision the majesty he once held—a sovereign among kings, revered by dignitaries, beloved by the vast empire that thrived beneath his gaze.
This is how the eternal Lord Vishnu, in divine slumber, beheld the turning world... nearly a thousand years past, in the sacred twilight of the 11th century.
For centuries, the God lay hidden, lost beneath layers of earth and silence. None can say how he vanished—swallowed by the mud, worn down by time, shattered near the remnants of his celestial seat.
His palace, once radiant, had crumbled into memory—dismantled by the slow hand of time. His name drifted into the winds of forgetting; his devotees long scattered like dust across the ages.
Yet deep in the sacred abyss, he remained—slumbering through endless days and moonless nights—until a dream stirred in the heart of a seeker… or perhaps it was his spirit whispering through the veil…
In 1936, French archaeologist Maurice Glaize followed the man’s dream, a local from a village nearby, and found the God hidden underneath the sediment.
Unlike stone and wood, born of earth and forest, bronze is something else entirely. It doesn’t occur in nature. It is a conjuring—an alloy forged by human hands, summoned through fire and will. Its presence stirs the imagination of seekers—especially those who study ancient metals. Archaeo-metallurgists. They search for clues hidden in the bronze itself.
Each fragment is a whisper from the past… A chance to glimpse the soul of the ancient Khmer Empire. To see how ores were pulled from the belly of the earth… How sacred flames transformed them… And how molten metal became gods.
Since May 2024, Lord Vishnu has journeyed far. Now, he rests in France—under the careful gaze of experts at Arc’Antique. There, every crack and curve is studied. Every fragment, a whisper from the divine.
Soon, he will recline once more— this time, in the heart of Paris. At the Guimet Museum, he will become one of the most sacred displays in Khmer history. For nearly six months, he will be among kin—deities from Siem Reap and beyond, gathered in a silent reunion of gods. He will be greeted by his people. Cambodians who remember. Europeans who wonder.
And yet, his true throne remains far away. At West Mebon, his temple rises once more—a slow restoration, waiting to be complete in 2026.
But the pedestal stands empty. Still. Faithful. Yearning to bear the weight of the divine once again, as it did a thousand years ago.
About the temple and the reservoir
Situated around 13 kilometers or a 30-minute drive northwest of Siem Reap city, the West Baray is the largest ancient man-made reservoir in Angkor Archaeological Park, a region protected by UNESCO since 1992 and covering 400 square kilometers.
The reservoir is built from high earth embankments on all sides in a rectangle about 8km by 2km. It can hold about 56 million cubic meters of freshwater collected from rivers and streams as well as the Kulen mountain.
In the center of the reservoir, the West Mebon temple emerges from the water with a size of around 100 by 100 meters. It has its own reservoir of water inside with an island in the middle followed by another well in the center.
It is a very rare architectural form in ancient Khmer monuments. The island, connected to the temple by an earth-stone causeway, is where the bronze statue of the Reclining Vishnu was once held on a pedestal.
Portions of the West Mebon temple were restored by the French School of Asian Studies (Ecole Francaise d'Extrême-Orient) during the 1930s and 1940s. After that, the temple was again left to the mercy of the elements.
In 2011, a large-scale restoration of the temple, a work between APSARA National Authority and French School of Asian Studies, was formed and it is expected to be completed in 2026.
The statue, although broken in pieces, was unearthed by French architects Henri Marchal and Maurice Glaize in 1936. The original statue is believed to be more than five meters long and is the largest ancient bronze statue ever found in Cambodia.
It was preserved in Siem Reap, then in Phnom Penh, and is now in France for an exhibition at the Guimet Museum in Paris from April 30 to September 8. After France, the statue will be exhibited in the United States.
No one can say exactly for sure when the temple was built. No reliable surviving record can be found. However, through comparison with other temples in Angkor Park, West Mebon is believed to have been constructed around the mid-11th century.
Tourists can visit it by using a local private boat service. A temporary embankment to protect the restoration site from the reservoir water acts as a walkway allowing visitors to view the temple from the outside. The restoration area is still closed to the public.